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Armed and Decorous

 
In Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture, tucked into the Yueliang (Moon) Mountain range and cradled within a lush forest, is Basha Village. About 7.5 kilometers away from the county seat, Basha is home to 400 households comprising about 2,000 people of the Miao ethnic group. Basha differs from other Miao villages in terms of lifestyle and garb. The villagers are the only civilians in China still permitted to bear firearms, the men wear their hair in a very unique way, and longstanding traditional burial customs are still observed today.
 

For the men of Basha Village, their muskets, with a range of about 20 meters, are like the knife for Tibetan people. To preserve the distinctive characteristics of the ethnic group, the Chinese government granted special privileges to Basha people, allowing them to bear arms. In days past, the weapons were used for hunting and security. Now the rifles are a symbol of masculinity, and are occasionally used to hunt small animals. Between seven to 15 years of age, each Basha boy will experience an adult ceremony. On that day, the boy and his friends will go fishing and hunt for birds. The more fish and birds he captures, the greater his expectations for the future. At the end of the day, the young man and his friends will get together with his family to grill fish and birds and drink. During this festive occasion the hairdresser of his family will cut his hair, which indicates the completion of the ceremony. Now considered an adult, his father presents him with a musket, and his life enters an independent phase. Thereafter, the weapon will always be by his side, even after death.

The haircutting tools used for Basha men are simple: a basin and a sickle, with the blade sharpened on a stone. The hairdresser’s hand goes up and down, and the traditional hair style is formed – a bright scalp, a single bun and flying tail. The style is an important gender distinction for Basha men and they will keep it for a lifetime. Legend has it that this hairstyle was conceived by Emperor Chi You, a mythological warrior of ancient times. It is the oldest male hairstyle still maintained today in China. The style is convenient for farming and hunting. It also adds to the masculine characteristics of the men. Once Basha boys are old enough, they have their hair cut in this way. Adding charm and ruggedness, their unique garb, hairstyles and muskets are a part of their image.

Basha people believe everything has a spirit and they especially revere trees. They believe that each tree holds the soul of an ancestor, and that it is these trees that protect Basha Village. When a child is born in the village, their parents plant a tree. When the baby is ill, they pray to the tree for the protection of ancestors. When the children become adults, they plant trees. When they get marry, they plant trees. When a person dies, the tree that was planted on the day of their birth is made into their coffin. And the place where they are buried will be planted with trees. So trees, rather than tombs, are seen in the village.

 

When a villager dies, women in the village do not work on that day, but rather observe the men in their work. Male villagers are divided into three groups for varying tasks: Cutting tree to make a coffin; digging the grave; and cooking. Crying will not be heard in the village. At night, under the guidance of the necromancer, the entire village escorts the deceased to the mountain grave. The newly planted tree on the grave will be hung with clothes and shoes belonging to the dead. The entire process lasts only about 30 minutes. Basha people worship and cherish trees; so much so that the village has become a literal Basha. In the Miao language, the word Basha means a place of flourishing plants.

 

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