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On a list of China’s most recognizable attractions, the “Great Wall” is always near the top of the list. Once a massive military defense project to protect against nomadic invaders from the North, the Great Wall gradually lost its functionality over time, but remains a national symbol of pride and unity. Most people associate the wall with Beijing, and indeed the two most-visited sections – Badaling and Juyongguan – are just outside the capital. However, the wall stretches for thousands of kilometers across northern China, and some of the lesser known sections are well worth a visit.
On an early summer weekend, I set out with several friends for a getaway. Although we spend the morning navigating Beijing’s labyrinthine traffic, by the afternoon we are in Qianxi County, Hebei Province, home of the Xifengkou Great Wall. It is my second visit to Xifengkou, and I can’t help but notice that our alternate route takes a little longer than my previous trip.
Located 50 kilometers northwest of Qianxi County Seat, Xifengkou Great Wall sits next to the Panjiakou Reservoir and is notable for its remarkable preservation without the aid of modern restoration. Due to its strategic geography, Xifengkou was a frequent area of conflict during ancient wars. In terms of its construction, Xifengkou differs from other parts of the Great Wall. Its military design includes both a pass and several fortresses. The fortresses rest in a basin surrounded by mountains, composed of solid stone. The pass was constructed to the north of the fortresses with three sides facing mountains and the fourth bordered by water. Although its history is long, Xifengkou gained its greatest fame in the last century as the site of a Chinese victory against Japanese invaders in 1933.
Part of Xifengkou is submerged in water, creating an unparalleled visual of an aquatic Great Wall. When looking over the wall from nearby mountaintops, only a few segments are visible above the water surface. The wall meanders around the mountain and gradually dips into the water for two kilometers before rising again on mountains to the west. Locals report that when Panjiakou Reservoir was constructed in 1976 to harness the Luanhe River, the water rose above the wall. Now, the underwater section is only visible during dry seasons.