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  • Destination
A Sunken Treasure
— The Underwater Great Wall
Text and photographs by Feng Bin

Running into an elderly man with his grandson.
When the film Devils on the Doorstep was produced, the village was built.

“Here we are,” announces the boatman driving us to the underwater Great Wall after a 10-minute journey across the Panjiakou Reservoir. Through crystal water, the submerged subject is clearly visible. With waves, the wall comes to life, its image swaying as the water rises and falls. Combined with reflections of the mountain wall shining on the surface, the whole scene becomes even more magnificent. The boatman illustrates that preservation of this section of the wall is now necessary since a large part of it is under water for most of the year. However, when Chinese Central Television sent reporters underwater to document the wall’s condition several years ago, they found very little recent damage.

On the other side of the river, the wall caresses the steep terrain as it winds up to the mountaintop. Years ago, director Jiang Wen chose this location to shoot the film Devils on the Doorstep, and built a small village there as his crew’s base camp. Now, the village has been transformed into a scenic spot, with some nearby locals offering accommodation and food for tourists. “A famous filmmaker chose our home to shoot his film,” smiles the boatman, “and this helps explain the glorious history of this place in defeating the Japanese aggressors.”

An ancient book describes Xifengkou as “sitting among deep valleys and precipitous mountains, and standing on bold cliffs,” but now that it is partially underwater, its magnificence is slightly transformed. However, looking down on the Great Wall from a boat is a new unexpected treat.

 

Tips:

Transportation:

Bus transportation to Xifengkou is not very convenient, so a private car is recommended. A weekend is more than enough for sightseeing and relaxation.  

Accommodation:

Hotels and family inns can be found at Xifengkou for reasonable prices. The former film set of the movie Devils on the Doorstep has been developed into a holiday village. All the houses are now ready to receive tourists.

Also, campers are welcome to set up tents around the reservoir.  

Snacks:

Wild mushrooms, wild vegetables, fish, tofu, and lamb soup are local favorites. Tourists are strongly recommended to try fish from the Panjiakou Reservoir. You can either grill the fish by yourself or have a local household cook it for you. 

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