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Elegance, Antiques, and Enterprises
Text and photographs by Cai Jun

Duhangli Alley: The history of Duhangli Alley dates back to 1932, when 25 three-story shikumen (a traditional architectural style unique to Shanghai) houses and 10 qilou buildings were constructed on both sides of the alleyway. In 1937, when Japanese invaders took over Shanghai’s Zhabei and Hongkou districts, some brokerage companies moved to the alley to escape the upheaval. Local residents rented their houses to those companies to do business. This situation continued until 1958. Today, the alley has become an ideal place to experience Shanghai’s unique shikumen lifestyle.

St. Joseph’s Church: Prior to the 1920s, this Gothic-style church was the only cathedral in the Shanghai French Concession. It is open to visitors on Saturday and Sunday afternoons.

 

Shanghai’s Antique Street

Although unfamiliar even to many Shanghai natives, a visit to Dongtai Road Antique Market is a must-do for many foreign tourists. The destination is marked on Shanghai travel maps distributed by American Airlines, Japan Airlines and other foreign airlines on their Shanghai-bound flights.

Dongtai Road was once nothing but a nondescript street until some literati began to gather there to chat over tea, and exchange antiques with each other. Gradually, the road became a gathering place for antique dealers. In the late 1980s, an antique market was set up under the sponsorship of local government.

The roadside stands appear like tinplated cabins, and most of the owners are natives of Henan and Anhui provinces. Stands mainly sell craftworks, of which only a few are priceless antiques. But the craftworks on sale, such as aged printed calendars, phonographs, LP discs, old-fashioned electric fans, telephone sets, and bird cages, all display a flavor of old Shanghai. A stroll along this street can evoke a feeling of being transported back to the glamour of 1930s Shanghai.

Hidden behind the tinplated stands are stores where one can find genuine valuable antiques. The owners of these stores are all experts in antique research and collection. Dealers rarely tout for customers, but prefer to spend most of their days chatting, sunbathing or reading newspapers. 

■Tips

Located in northeastern Luwan District, Dongtai Road was built in 1902 and initially named Taishan Road. In 1943, it was given its present name.

The antique market stretches 200 meters along Dongtai and Liuhe roads and consists of more than 210 stands and stores. It is an ideal place to buy tourist souvenirs. Most commodities on sale have no price tags, and buyers must be prepared to bargain hard with dealers.

 

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