Visitors to Shanghai may have noticed some examples of the city’s once prevalent shikumen (two or three story townhouses) in Tianzifang and Xintiandi, or soaked in the ambience along the nongtang (narrow lanes and alleys) of old Shanghai. But few have laid eyes on the interiors of these structures, or got a true sense of how the locals actually live. 

Shanghai is unbearably hot in July and August, and most Shanghainese like to stay indoors under the air-conditioning. But families in older urban areas often do not have the privilege of piped cool air – families just like my great aunt’s.  

During my visit to the World Expo, I take the opportunity to pay her a visit. The taxi speeds away from Hongqiao Airport, passing over viaducts and through the endless sprawl of high-rises. I am impressed by the diverse international architecture on the Bund and by the dizzying selection of skyscrapers in Pudong New Area. After passing through bustling Nanjing Shopping Street, my taxi pulls over at an old lane in Xiamen Street. 

My great aunt is over 70 years old, and her family has lived in a shikumen home for generations. Shikumen means “stone gate,” a reference to the main door of each house where two wood door planks are reinforced by stone bars. They were first called shigumen, but shikumen is the modern pronunciation. Houses usually cover 2 or 3 floors, and are very narrow inside. At the back part of the building there is usually a courtyard which basks in natural light. My great aunt’s house lies on the top floor. Stairs are still made of wood, high and steep. Each stair is so thin that I can only place half of my foot on one. They creak with age as I make my way up, clutching the handrail gingerly and taking my time. It takes some effort and I wonder how old people can manage the journey every day. 

The interior of a shikumen house is often a bit untidy. Daily necessities are stored in a small room, which can quickly become overcrowded. The overall layout of the house is quite interesting, something like a modern “duplex apartment.” The lowest point of the house is the doorway, flanked by stairs on both sides. The kitchen lies to the left long corridor afar while the washbasin and bath are located at the end of this passage. The 2 square meter space on the rear left, which is enclosed by a curtain, is the toilet.